In 2019, Mokpo city was the first nationwide to declare itself the 'Capital of Taste', a city of gastronomy. Mokpo, a gateway where the southwestern sea and the Yeongsan River meet, and where the ocean and inland areas converge, is known for its abundance of fresh seafood caught from the clean southwestern sea and mudflats. The 'Mokpo 9 Delicacies', dishes made from local specialties including well-known octopus, skate, croaker, crab, hairtail, flounder, sole, blackmouth angler, and rockfish, are said to be exceptional. Among these, we set off to try the representative local dish of the southern provinces, Hongeo Samhap.

As you enter the restaurant, past an entrance filled with various food certification stickers, as if proving its prestige, you're welcomed by the unique, pungent smell of skate.

Skate's strong ammonia smell can be divisive, but in the southern provinces, it's been said that 'no matter how plentiful the table, if there's no skate, it's as if there's nothing to eat'. It's considered the best food, a representative delicacy of the southern provinces.

Skate has traditionally been abundant near Heuksan Island, hence it's well-known. But when did we start fermenting skate, and why? This fundamental question arose.

Towards the end of the Goryeo Dynasty and the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty, a 'vacate the islands policy' was implemented to evacuate fishermen living on the islands to the mainland to a Japanese invasions. During the journey from Heuksan Island to the mainland, most food would spoil, but skate, fermented in a pot, would only smell, not spoil, and moreover had a unique, spicy flavor that made it popular. This is said to be why it became a delicacy.

In "Jasan Eobo", a book written during the Joseon Dynasty by Jeong Yak-jeon, it's written that 'if a person has a stomachache, they should boil fermented skate into a soup, and it will remove the impurities and cure a hangover'. In "Sejong Sillok Jiriji", skate is introduced as a tribute to the king, showing how our ancestors valued and enjoyed fermented skate.

Now that we've learned about the origins of skate, it's time to truly taste it! Especially in Mokpo, it's common to eat 'Hongeo Samhap', wrapping well-fermented spicy skate, boiled pork, and aged kimchi together. The combination of the sharp taste of skate, sour kimchi, and plain pork harmoniously mixing is the specialty. This perfect Hongeo Samhap, complete with a bowl of cool Makgeolli, becomes the special 'Hongtak Samhap' that can only be tasted in Mokpo. This combination is said to be excellent, with the fatty pork, cold-natured skate, and warm-natured Makgeolli creating a balanced meal.

When you put well-fermented skate in your mouth, the spicy flavor stimulates your sense of smell first, and the texture of the flesh and bones stimulates your taste buds. As you continue chewing and fully experiencing the sharp taste that fills your mouth, the aftertaste is surprisingly sweet and softer than beef. The true taste of skate that penetrates all five senses! Once you know this taste and fall for it, the mysterious charm of Hongeo Samhap endlessly tempts your palate.

When you're lost in the electrifying taste of Samhap that stimulates all five senses with every bite, the kind owner serves you skate roe and freshly made skate skin muk. The first taste of 'skate skin muk' was artistic, with its chewy and rubbery texture, with no fishy or foul smell, especially when dipped deeply in vinegar chili paste as recommended by the owner. The skate roe also captured the palate with its soft texture, savory and plain taste. Not only is skate flesh nutritious, but organs like skate roe are rich in various beneficial proteins and have excellent antibacterial and anticancer effects, according to research!

As you look at the curious pots that fill the wall, the owner explains that they are a kind of label, marked with the origin and date of the skate. Real skate connoisseurs consider the origin important, so the labels are always shown and served. The origin labels, started collecting only after that! Looking at them, you think 'Indeed, Mokpo takes great pride in its taste,' and you feel that Mokpo is a truly reliable city of taste that you can trust and eat anywhere.

Despite visiting at an early dinner time around 4 pm, there were many customers who missed the taste of Mokpo's Hongeo Samhap. Not only locals but also quite a few tourists. Especially, one young father and son said, 'It's so delicious that my friends in Seoul even order delivery, so I was curious and decided to stop by before going to Seoul.' This made me realize anew how much Mokpo's Hongeo Samhap is loved by many.

Skate, a natural fermented food that never fails throughout the four seasons!

Skate is famous for being fermented and eaten as Samhap, but it is also reborn in various dishes like muchim, jjim, roe soup, pancakes, and fried skate.

If you come to Mokpo, you must try Hongeo Samhap, a precious local food!

If you add Makgeolli to precious people and precious Hongeo Samhap, we dare to think that you will be gifted precious time... Here are a few 'Top Restaurants' and 'Model Restaurants' in Mokpo where you can enjoy skate.

[ Restaurants Where You Can Enjoy Hongeo Samhap ]

✔ Top Restaurants [As of 2024]

- Deokin House / 1-1, Yeongsan-ro 73beon-gil / 061-242-3767

- Gold Medal Restaurant / 8, Hugwangdae-ro 143beon-gil / 061-272-2697

- Eorang Restaurant / 42-1, Maingete-ro / 061-245-2560

✔ Model Restaurants [As of 2024]

- Gold Medal Restaurant / 8, Hugwangdae-ro 143beon-gil / 061-272-2697

- Indongju maeul / 5, Boksan-gil 12beon-gil / 061-284-4068

- Mokpo Myeongga House / 136-1, Samhak-ro / 061-243-1800